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Newborn Kits

updating pics on this page. april 09 plz be patient

About newborn Kits

Baby chinchillas  are born fully developed. Their eyes are open, they have teeth and can move around as soon as they are dry. Normally they will nurse for around six weeks and may even try to eat chinchilla pellets when just a few days old. It is not advised to give them raisins or treats at an early age. They need their mum's milk. They usually stay with mum until they are 8-10 weeks old. To separate them from mum it is best to have them caged with kits of their own age.

 
I never allow babies to be moved to a new owner/home until they are at least 3 - 4 months old unless going to an experienced breeder in the NCS.
 
They are fully mature at one year however a female chinchilla can become pregnant from 6months. Unadvisable to breed at this age though. Males mature quickly too and will mate with mother and sisters.
Segregate sexes at around 3-4 months old.
 
They quickly learn how to a daily dust bath. This helps to keep their fur dry. They roll in it and cleanse their fur this way.
Female standard grey carrier,split for /violet  with first born an ultra violet kit
 
Two hours later we see the second born kit who is a black velvet.
 Mothers under belly still wet, kits crawling freely to be with mother.
 
Shortly after being cleaned up, the kits are feeding,
note the first born kit on left, tail is now curling up, this is a good indication of well being. Violet kit now fluffy and dry under mum's chin, black velvet kit at rear
If the male is left in you will have breedback.while it is okay to do this once if the females are like mine an healthy robust blocky females. However it is not advisable to always keep male in as mums need a rest. They are not breeding machines!!! This is where po;gamous cages are handy. The males are still able to be above the their partner and have contact and see what is going on but are unable to mate as a slide is put along on the females cage. Males are quite happy being 'above' the females. If next to each other in cages side ny side they tend to mope.
It is normal behaviour for chinnies to mate right away, however I think the mothers need a rest. I only allow my chinchilla females to have two litters per year.
Have a good look at kits and observe their appearance at this stage. No need to take them out, leave with mum while you do this. Do the eyes look ok, are they open? If  the eyelids appear to be stuck together it is imperative that you take that kit out from cage and bath the eyes with a saline solution or cooled boiled water until eyes are opened. Use a clean piece of gauze or cloth(cotton buds or cotton wool balls can leave small particles behind) to gently wipe eyes from inner corner to outer corner until eyelids are unstuck and no crust or mucous remaining otherwise the sight may be impaired. You can also buy kitten eye drops from the pet store to clean the eye.  when you replace kit in cage rub the kit against mums side and belly to remove your scent from its fur. This way mum will accept baby as hers. With your scent on it she might reject it. If kits are fighting? read below on how to rotate and suppliment
If you have more than one kit and sometime when this is her first litter her milk may take a while to come in. Look at and read up on handrearing as you may have to rotate or
SEE SUPPLIMENT FEEDING PAGE for hand feeding kits
Look out also for sore red teats in the mum if kits are over zealous and greedy. If mum's teats red and sore apply a small smear of vaseline (petrolium jelly) it is not toxic, no odour and kits will still feed with this on. Avoid sand'bath for mum while vaseline is on the teats.
Fighting kits? small wounds, may be treated by washing with sterile water or antiseptic wash See FirstAid Box then a small smear of Savlon or Vaseline(petrolium jelly) again don't allow the injured kit to go into the sand while this is on other wise the sand will stick to it. This is for minor wounds, for more serious ones? see your vet. separating at 8-12 weeks under the age of 12 weeks a male may be showing signs of sexual urges. however he is no threat as yet to mum or sister if under 12 weeks, if over 12 weeks then i suggest putting him out of sight and sound of mum so that the separation is fully successful otherwise he will continue to mope and so will mum. More than one kit male&female mixed sex kits & mutiple litters/ ideally until the kits are perhaps eight/nine weeks, leave with mum then take both kits out and keep together until 12 weeks. you then separate then to live on their own. especially if male. Males tend to fight if females are present.

Orphan Kits Bathing

This is one of the hardest task any breeder has to do. If  mother has died, or has deserted/abandoned her kit, or is too sick to tend her kit. Please read on...........

First and foremost strict cleanliness and hygeine. Always wash hand with antibacterial soap or hibiscrub(may be bought from a vet practice)which should really be at hand and stored in your chinchilla first-aid box 

To Feed a baby you need to read up on it here feeding or supplimenting

Always maintain strict sterilising of all materials used in hand rearing. A chinchilla kit can fall ill all too easily from infection passed on by unclean utensils.

As said on the page in link above, feed every two hours at first (throughout night too) As kit takes more, the feed will last longer and the time between feeds may be slowly increased. After a few days you will find the baby will tell you when it needs fed. It will come to the front of the small cage or carrier you have it in and look for you. A reminder here too. after each feel always remember to wipe its face and then massage its bottom with a cotton wool ball dipped in warm (not hot) water to stimulate the kit to pass urine and droppings just as mum does for it. 

Teaching kit to bathe

A few days after birth try to teach the kit how to bathe in a sand-bath. This part is fun, you will enjoy it.

Put some sand in a butter/margarine tub. not a lot, just a small layer to cover the base, Into this tub put the kit. Carefully sprinkle some sand on its back. Avoid eye and head area. ruffle the sand into its fur on it's back, just as you would shampoo your own hair.

As you do so and with your other hand play with the sand, letting it run through your fingers etc as though bathing your hands. Make sure the kit sees you do this. as the days go on, encourage the kit to roll over by gently coaxing him/her by placing him in the sand on his side as you place him in the tub, this way he has to twist to stand up and shake. Within a few days your kit will be rolling quite happily.

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